Redesigning Jewellery
Jewellery design has become unimaginative. We need to improve jewellery design by using engineering design techniques.
I came across a Balenciaga bracelet that is exact replica of a hose clamp, only it is made of silver! I am not joking! I have linked to the Saks website, which sells it for $1000/-. This is indeed the same hose clamp you get in a plumbing or auto parts shop just made of silver.
I thought of a post I wrote back in March 2006. Not much has changed since, though I have found some interesting examples.
Long ago, I had a look at various kinds of Jewellery designs. The designs I saw were uninspiring and dated. This was totally unexpected considering that India is one of the biggest consumers of gold jewellery with a history in jewellery design dating thousands of years.
I found only a certain number of designs and patterns in the market. The forms of jewellery are also the same. I kept looking for innovation as the industry became more and more organised. But alas! No innovation in a product of such a high value!!!
I believe the main problem is that, currently, the industry is dominated by artists rather than engineers.
The base of Jewellery Design
At the base of jewellery design are three basic items:
Designing elements: This aspect is more of the artist's type of work, where different designs are created through the use of symmetry, form and look. These we will call "elements". Some of these elements need innovative craftsmanship. We can think of inlays, engravings, etc. We can also think of finishes like glossy, knurled, brushed etc.
Designing links (that hold various elements together): If you observe different jewellery pieces (except the ring), you will find that various elements are meant to position themselves on the wearer's body. The links help to position these elements and to hold them together. Links may be flexible, rigid or complex.
Designing Clamps or holders for gems: The element comprises gems or diamonds(sometimes it doesn't). These gems (and diamonds) are required to be held by clamps. These are of different types, crab-like or ring-like, and many more.
Clarification: In the above classification, a pendant will be considered an element; the part which allows the pendant to attach to the chain will be a link.
The current state of innovation
As of now, I find most innovation comes in elements. New designs, patterns, and motifs can be seen in jewellery catalogues. We can also see an innovative blending of modern, classical and historical concepts.
A wide variety of links and clamps styles are available - some standard, others quite creative. However, we do not see the creative ones being deployed in jewellery. For instance, there are around 20+ types of chain links (i.e. links used only for chains). You can see some here. But a lot more can be possible. Similarly, jewel mounts, too, are limited. In both these areas I can see immense possibilities of innovations.
This is not a new concept.
People have created extreme innovations using mechanisms, movements, levers, springs, etc. and art in jewellery.
For instance, in this video, you will see some interesting concepts used in coins and lighters.
Ultimately, this will take us to watch-making. Watch-making is a unique blend of engineering design, precision manufacturing and jewellery aesthetics. However, there is another type of innovation with engineering design and jewellery aesthetics. One example is this shape-shifting ring-pendent.
Two paths for innovation from Engineers!
First would be bringing CAD (Computer Aided Design) to this field. I think using CAD, far more imaginatively designed links can be used. In fact, engineers can effectively use their design skills to make the links the focus of attention (thus morphing them into elements) or submerge them totally so that they stay invisible to the observer.
Second, it would have (I believe) far-reaching consequences. For example, imagine a necklace that can morph from a simple necklace into an elaborate bracelet or a watch! Or imagine a necklace that you can customize with a set of jewels! This will lead to buying once and using as many as!! Users can wear one configuration each day and never will people know it’s just the same necklace reconfigured!
The Future of Jewellery!
Of course, human infatuation with jewellery will continue! (Ok, it is female infatuation for jewellery and male infatuation for females!) However, the industry has not even scratched the surface of innovation. The answer to me seems to lie in increasing the involvement of engineers in this field.